Nainital - City of Lakes

I heard a saying somewhere long time back “You can only visit a place if it calls for you”. Same happened with me when I decided to visit Nainital. I have been planning to visit Nainital since 2012 and it got realised only in 2018. So when Meha called me and decided to give news of her recent motherhood, I decided out of blue let me visit her as she has been asking me for long to visit her hometown. Giving background to Meha, she is one of three members whom I had trained during my IBM days. All three became part of my close circle during my days in Delhi. Meha always described Nainital as place of Heaven. I was drawn to this place from that moment. During our discussion, few others also mentioned Jim Corbet. Now these two places became part of my bucket list.

So in November 2018, I decided to visit Nainital. I booked flight to Delhi, which had me reaching Delhi at mid night. I usually hire out Zoom car service and then drive out to destination. I had pre-booked Zoom prior to my reaching Delhi. As I landed, excitement of trip caught up to me and I hired a taxi to take me to Zoom pick up location. By the way, there is no pick up or drop facility for Zoom in the Delhi airport. Weird as it sounds its most inconvenient if you are new to the place.

I went to Mahipalpur which is nearest Zoom pick up location. As the taxi cruised out of Airport, he had a weird expression, asking do I really want to go there, kept on enquiring if my hotel was there. I started thinking was it safe for me to travel all alone there. With slight flattering of heart, we reached the place and driver was relieved that I am there to pick up the car and not to do any shady business. As I picked up the car, the Zoom fellow started showing signs of worry as to me travelling alone at mid night. With all this worry setting in for lone traveler I started the ignition to take me to destination.

Me being me, I set out straight to Nainital, with only booking for a hotel in Haldwani (base of Nainital). As I started google maps, it said 6 hours to reach Nainital. I was sure I will reach by 7 to Nainital, complete my sightseeing and spend a day with Meha and her family.  This was first time I went without any plans, nor searched anything on google for information. Adventure is an adventure in any shape or form.

As I hit the highway, it was smooth drive with one pit stop for a tea break. As I went on driving, I did not see many cars on the road to Nainital, that meant very less tourist crowd. That was something I was hoping for. As I neared the Bazpur belt around 3 am, came a complete shock as I saw lot of trucks and buses stranded on the road side. I went ahead of these vehicles and came to complete stand still near a place. I stopped on the side of the road and waited for some movement. I saw four more cars came along side me.

As I tried parking in the most convenient way for the traffic to be way less cluttered, fellow driver from other car started instructing me as I could not see anything in that pitch darkness. This is when the driver realised I was all alone and started inspecting the car. He found out I was all alone in the car and enquired me if I was alone in the car. I was parked in the last among the 5 cars. Now the reality hit me as I took a look around, found pitch darkness, middle of wilderness and one fellow car driver trying to hit a conversation with me. I was answering him in one liner as I could not even see his face in that darkness. He just told me to be alongside their car and not lose out sight of their car and follow them closely. I did as I was instructed, but still failed one time when they cruised away and I got stuck in between another truck who did not want to give way to a tiny car. I waited until an hour before I was reunited with rest of the cars.

As first rays of sun hit the sky I saw the ground reality, 5 cars among more than 100 trucks and buses, more than 100 tractors carrying sugarcane, and one solo female traveller among more than 100 men. I have never been scared in my life of me being female, but with every stare came feeling of fear which creeped inside me. With need to use the nature for nature call, but fear of being pounced, kept me huddle inside. As I saw other car passengers, I felt relived. I did not know them but felt sense of trust that helped me to come out of car. That still didn’t enable me to relive my need to go on natures call. This also got me upset as to why female travellers have to face this everytime. Any which ways, the need to do timepass in the enormous traffic jam got me chatting with the boys from the other cars. Having bite on the sugarcane got me back to my childhood. As we waited, the traffic started clearing and the cars were kind enough to let me be alongside them until we reached the clearing. They say “new friends or companions are made in strangest of places”. Same thing happened with me, new place, new people and new experiences will make me remember this moment forever.

As the traffic cleared and we started moving to clearer highway, I saw one of the drivers giving me a salute. I suppose for my sheer bravery of being a solo traveller and a good driver. But that gesture made me feel proud of myself and also made me realise, strangest of places beautiful memories are created.

As I reached Nainital, I found it not meeting my expectations of the description by friends.

I decided to head back to hotel at Haldwani. I called up Meha and told her my sightseeing was over and was heading back to hotel. She invited me to join for dinner at her place. I got ready to meet her in the evening and drove to her house. Everyone in her in-law’s house welcomed me with smiles. Felt at home looking at them, met her baby boy who was fast asleep. While having dinner they enquired about my sightseeing to Nainital. That’s when I realised during conversation, I actually visited Bhimtal and not Nainital. As her Bro-in-law explained about the places I need to see, I felt google speaking to me J.

I made a list of things I will see next day in Nainital, that’s when he told to take a taxi who will take me to all the places. He told about the price the taxi guy will charge. Me being bad at negotiating, I decided to take up the best possible rate the taxi driver would offer me which was close to what Bro-in-Law mentioned. They also suggested I stay in Nainital to get the experience of the weather.

I departed to my hotel in Haldwani and took a good night’s rest.
I left early morning to Nainital, the beauty of the place hit me like sun shine. The warmth of the sun rays in the weather that was going to stay in this Journey.

 

I stopped for quick bite and a glass of tea. Weather turned out to be good than what I expected.

I reached near the main attraction area of Nainital i.e. the Lake. One of the most popular tourist destination of India, was actually surrounded Himalayan Mountains, lakes and nature's beauty. The Lake that was surrounded by the Nainital town, Naina Devi temple and the mall road. Very clean and brimming with people even in the morning.

I was approached by a taxi driver who explained to me why I need to take him along to see the places. After long thought, I decided to take up his offer. We parked my car near his house and then took his car for sightseeing. But the driver was his brother, so that’s when I realised, one was sales pitch and other was actual executer.

He told he will take me to the places in the list and it was as per the agreed government rates.

1) Himalaya Darshan - First place we stopped at mountain top from where one can see clearly the Himalayas. There was a telescope installed on the seating area which could be used to view the Himalayas more clearly for Rs 20. I heard from driver this was most busiest during sun rise and sun set when there was no fog. Early morning with very less people around made the place even more beautiful and peaceful. I spent not more than 15 mins there to click pictures and then leave to next destination.

2) Nainital Peak view point – The lake from the view point looks like a mango carved out of mountain. Due to the sun rays the landscape in the picture showed different colours. I clicked pictures of Nainital lake and the city and then went to next one.

 

3) Khurpatal lake view point –The emerald blue-green lake surrounded by pine and old cedar trees offers a gorgeous view from the top of the mountains. Khurpatal, looked like a small village nestled high in mountain valley. I captured mountain monkeys jumping from the pine trees and heard their welcome noise which was bliss from the city traffic. There is a small staircase that leads to the bottom of the hill from where you can click pictures of the Khurpatal lake.

4) Suicide point – Driver said that Suicide Point of Nainital is one of the most visited tourist spot in Nainital, as it is located near to the equally popular Lover's point Nainital. At suicide point you can get a Horse to go riding on trails inside the mountain forest towards lover’s point. Both the places scenic view to the tourists. I learnt from driver many jumped off from this point and committed suicide and that is how it got that name.

5) Tiffin top: It is a mesmerizing trip to Tiffin top from where the whole of Nainital is visible. Driver said I could take the horseback ride or hike to the top. The view from the top is absolutely stunning at sunset. I decided to give it a skip as sun was already up and now the view will be same as ay view from the top.

5) Eco Cave Gardens – This point I loved especially for the sheer mystery around the caves. It is a newly found go to place in Nainital. It comprises several naturally interconnected caves named after different animals. Hanging gardens makes this place even more attractive. With Entry fee of Rs 20, I entered gardens. I took the trial which is well marked and takes you to every cave without amiss. Each of the cave is named after animals like Tiger Cave, flying fox cave, bat cave etc. which gives a mystery feel to it. The caves are well lit so one can go without any issue of darkness. Size does not matter as anyone could go around the smallest of the places.

6) Saritatal Water Falls – It was the cleanest and fresh waterfall in Nainital. I was confused if it was man made or natural. It was amidst the manmade park and had walking path leading to the water fall. It small park with seating arrangements and is busiest during peak season.

7) Bara Pathar – Last point I visited was the Bara Pathar which offers adventure sports like rock climbing and fox line. Which I have done before so I did not venture out for those.

8) Tea Garden – As I missed Bara Pathar, he took me to a nearby Tea garden. Nice small set up which you can give it a miss. As compared to the Munnar Tea Garden which spread over mountains this was very small garden just to cater to tourists and their selfie’s

9) Kainchi Dham - The temple is one of the cleanest temple complexes in town with contemporary architecture. The temple is built for Neeb Karoli saint, who was believed to have spiritual powers and is worshiped here. It is easily accessible temple via road and can be visited any time of the year. I learnt from driver the yearly festival finds itself brimming with people.

10) Ghorakhal - The Temple is filled with brass bells of all shapes and sizes as well as letters all over the temple. There is a saying, if your wish is fulfilled you need to visit again and donate the brass bell. You can see countless bells of various sizes that substantiates the belief it carries. Bells are sold out side by street vendors. Driver informed this place is famous for the marriages as I could see many bride and grooms with their families come to conduct the marriage ceremony.

11) Frog stone bridge – Naturally formed Frog under the hanging bridge is quite a wonder. As this attracts tourist who want to enjoy the river as well look at this natural formation. There is a canteen which gives snacks and also view of the river.

 

As the day ended, In the end I picked my car and left to hotel. I rested in the hotel for a while and decided to take an evening stroll to the lake. I was told there was boat riding in the morning in Naini Lake but it gets closed down by evening. So I missed this one as I had returned in the evening to hotel. Lake is surrounded by the Nainital city which has pathway constructed for the walk originating from Naina Devi Temple running along side of Naini Lake and ending on Tallital which is the southern corner of Lake. The road leading to Nainadevi temple gets closed for vehicles at at 6 pm until 9 pm as the roadside starts brimming with street vendors. I stopped looking at the bangle stand which was as colorful as a rainbow. Contemplating to buy or not for my friends made me so confused as too much variety always puts me in fix. I moved along the road looking with awe at all the local cuisine on the road. As I moved towards the temple I saw more shops with many more things to sell. 

It was sight for sore eyes, lake side was buzzing with tourists, street vendors selling all kinds of things, coffee to corn to walnuts to peanuts to winter cloths to fruits to even ice creams. I took a coffee and chatted with the street vendor for a while before I decided to take a stroll alongside the lake. I decided to take a walk and did not realize the cold until I stopped by to buy some fruits for the night. I had very less winter clothing and decided to buy couple of them to get by the cold weather.

I could see singers and artists performing and showing their talents to the passer-by. Felt at ease with the ambiance and soothing to see every kind of person on these streets. As I decided to retire back in the hotel had one feeling, it was mere fortune that I met Meha’s bro-in-law, who then changed my mind to visit Nainital. I felt content with the view of the city on the lake, which not only reflected the vast tradition of the temple nearby but also the feeling of comfort which it gave to tourists.

Next day I left for Delhi and got stuck in traffic as I approached Delhi. Other than the traffic I think my entire journey was well managed even though it was unplanned.